|
|
 |
The Sommelier's art
|
| The figure of the Sommelier appears throughout history moving discreetly through Greek Symposia, Roman banquets, Renaissance feasts and Savoy decrees, and is now making a come-back, revived by an increasingly popular wine culture amongst the young. A professional who is capable of giving valuable advice to customers in restaurants and wine-bars by suggesting the right label. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
SOMIGLIERE OF THE MOUTH AND COURT |
|
|
Sommelier is a French term which derives directly from the old word "Sommelier", "leader of beasts of burden", evolved into meaning "cellar man, hotel or restaurant waiter, for selecting and serving wines". In fact, our cousins from over the Alps only borrowed the meaning in the 18th century from the Italian, somigliere, used for the first time in the decrees of the Duke of Savoy a century earlier. These introduced the person of the Somigliere of the Mouth and Court, a public official appointed to research and evaluate wines, which were then sealed using a ring-seal with the ducal insignia, and to decide how they should be served.
The Sommelier's role, however, is much older. In ancient Greece the Simposiarca directed the Symposion, or the end of the banquet, when the men assembled to drink and discuss politics, art and philosophy. In the Roman Empire we find the arbiter bibendi or pocillator, a trusted person who had the task of mixing wine and water shortly before a banquet (in those days wine was always diluted). So, too, the Coppiere or Buttigliere had a central role in Italian courts, responsible for a strict etiquette and the quality of the drinks.
Nowadays, the Sommelier's art is regulated by the AIS, the Associazione Italiana Sommelier founded in 1965 and recognised by Presidential decree in 1973. The association, which numbers more than 7,500 members, is part of the ASI, Association de la Sommelerie Internationale.
|
|
|
|
Whether due to fashion or a reappraisal of the Italian wine tradition, it is becoming rarer to hear the waiter simply ask "red or white?" when seated at the table. Nowadays, nearly every restaurant has a wine list with a selection of wines which the customer is often uncertain about. This is when the Sommelier intervenes, a professional able to assist the customer in what is sometimes a difficult choice. Leaving aside the image of the formal maÓtre, the latest trends see a concerted advance by the young, increasingly fascinated by a job which is art and science at the same time.
What is the Sommelier's basic role?
The watchword is cultivation: a mastery of regional, national and international vine cultivation, of wine-making and sampling methods, as well as the principles which regulate the combining of wine with food and the serving of wine and liqueurs. Being the link between wine-growers and the end-user, the Sommelier needs to know how to choose the best products for his cellar from the enormous variety the market offers and produce an 'intelligent' wine list. Finally comes service: in the dining room he must be a colourful but at the same time, distinguished figure, capable of putting the customer at ease by suggesting the right wine without expecting to impose his advice, gaining his trust with courtesy and style. This is even more the case when the expert is also the restaurant owner, as is very often the norm.
|
|
|
|
The Sommelier must flatter the hedonist in the customer, as well as making himself instantly recognisable in the dining room, which is the reason for the careful choice of clothes: black trousers, shoes and socks, white shirt, black waistcoat and bow-tie, green swallow-tail jacket or black leather apron, in some cases replaced by (in France in particular) a red jacket. There is even a uniform to wear outside the workplace on those occasions such as conferences or symposia when the Sommelier has to attend: grey trousers, black shoes and socks, blue jacket with the Sommelier's badge attached and burgundy tie. Finally, the mark of distinction: the taste-vin in gold-plate for the professional and honorary Sommelier, and silver for associate members. Undoubtedly, the taste-vin is the object which most distinguishes the Sommelier. This is the cup which the expert wears on a chain around his neck which he detaches to pour a little wine into before offering it to the client. They come in many shapes and sizes, and curiously, they must never be washed in water after tasting, but simply dried with a clean cloth. Also essential is a simple, lightweight corkscrew and a small knife for cutting the cap which covers the bottle. To avoid possible embarrassment with champagne corks reluctant to 'pop', a champagne pincer is a must. A quick-read thermometer, a decanter, a candle with candlestick and a wine-basket complete the list.
|
|
|
|
|
