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Fruit aqua vitae, a mountain elixir
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| Aside from the traditional grappa, the result of rape distilling, exists the lesser known universe of aqua vitae. These are the fruit distillates, produced since ancient times by farmers living at the foot of the mountains. In Italy, they are most widespread in Alto Adige, where they are obtained from the famous local apples as well as many other fruits: pears, plums, wild cherries, raspberries and apricots, and even flowers and berries found at high altitude. |
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Their name means "the water of life", and derives from an expression used by alchemists during Medieval times. Fruit aqua vitae are distillates obtained from apples, pears, plums and other fruits. A tradition that has its roots in the mountain regions, above all in Trentino-Alto Adige. These elixirs are the result of the farmers' proverbial capacity to make the most of their produce. In this way, the discarded fruit - windfalls or fruit that was too mature or ruined by hail- was actually left to ferment and then distilled to obtain homemade brandies, excellent as after-dinner digestives or to warm oneself up after a day exposed to the harsh temperatures of winter at high altitude.
In recent times, aqua vitae has rid itself of its "poor" origins, instead proudly valorising its character as an aromatic and perfumed distillate, capable of releasing a bouquet that can compete with the finest Scotch whiskies and French cognacs. Its most direct competitor however is grappa, similar owing to its origins and production: it is also a type of aqua vitae, but made from the rape.
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THE PERFUME OF THE BEST FRUIT |
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The excellent quality of an aqua vitae is first and foremost the result of prime fruit, which must be healthy and aromatic. Ripe apples, pears, plums, cherries and apricots undergo the first stage of the transformation, the must preparation, where a second selection of the fruit takes place, which is then cut up and its impurities removed. After a fermentation period of three-five weeks follows the distillations, which for some aqua vitae, such as Apricot, the Alto Adige apricot distillate, takes place using traditional copper alembics. The result is a pure and transparent liquor, which is stored for a number of months and subjected to great thermal changes until it reaches an alcohol content of 38-43°. The maturation phase then takes place, either in wooden casks or containers made from steel or glass, according to the type of aqua vitae.
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FROM ALTO ADIGE TO FRIULI |
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The most traditional of Alto Adige's fruit distillates is Obstler, which is made from the famous local apples. A variant of the recipe though calls for the use of apples and pears in equal quantities, made to ferment together. Still in Alto Adige, Birnenbrand is made from just pears alone. The finest of these is the William-Christbirnen-Brand, a distillate of Williams pears which involves the use of copper alembics. It is sold in attractive bottles that contain a whole pear: tradition states that the pear was made to grow inside the bottle threaded onto the branch.
Another fruit distillate typical of the ex-Yugoslavian countries but also found in the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia is Slivoviz. It is a robust flavour plum aqua vitae, with a strong taste of biter almonds. The range of fruit distillates also includes those made with quinces, wild cherries, elder flower and amongst the fruits of the forest, raspberry.
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FROM HIGH ALTITUDE FLOWERS AND BERRIES |
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In addition to fruit aqua vitae, or brandies, in the mountains distillates are prepared with berries, flowers and roots of grasses that grow at altitude. Amongst these liquors, one of the most renowned is Genepi, which in the Aosta Valley is produced using the flowers of the black wormwood (Artemisia spicata Wulfen) or white wormwood (Artemisia umbelliformis Lam.) with two different processes: the infusion in alcohol or distillation. On the other hand, it is necessary to move over to the Dolomites, in Trentino, to find another long tradition of distillates. The most famous is a powerful digestive liquor that results from the natural fermentation of the gentian root, picked by hand in the summer after it has flowered so as not to damage this perennially protected plant. The distillate of juniper berries has a resinous bouquet, obtained from the small perfumed fruits of the mountain bush, also used for flavouring gin.
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In order for the bouquet of fruit aqua vitae to release all its potential, it is necessary to remember that the older the distillate, the warmer it should be served, whilst young aqua vitae should be served cold. The ideal glass is on the small side, flute or tulip-shaped. A tip is to chill the glass beforehand, because the difference in temperature between the warm distillate and the cold glass further develops the aroma and reduces perception of the alcohol. It is however necessary to distinguish according to the maturation of the aqua vitae: young and robust ones should be served in glasses rinsed with water and left in the freezer for about ten minutes. For more mature ones, place some ice in the glass, emptying it and pouring in the distillate. Unlike the others, aqua vitae that has undergone complete maturations should be tasted in room temperature glasses. Before sipping it, the aqua vitae should be left to decant for a few minutes in the glass: the contact with oxygen releases the aromatic notes of the distillate.
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