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The secrets of distilling
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| To understand the history of grappa, it's necessary to retrace the developments in the distilling process down through the centuries. This process of obtaining alcoholic beverages has always been seen as a somehow mysterious activity with a mythological aura. In ancient times this type of work was always veiled in mystery and seen as magical. A very humble product, "grappa" was not referred to as such until the end of the 19th century, coming from the Piedmontese term "rapa", or the Lombard "grapa", i.e. marc (the refuse that remains after pressing grapes). Grappa has a great tradition and today is a beverage greatly appreciated by connoisseurs. |
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Grappa is made by distilling grape marc. In the distillery the residue of the grape pressing process - skins, stalks and seeds - is first heated so that the remaining liquid contained in it will evaporate. The vapor is then cooled so that it condenses. Every substance has a different boiling temperature. This makes it possible to select the condensed liquid with the characteristics you want, i.e. the parts that imbue the distilled spirits with the best bouquet and greatest concentration of alcohol.
Continuous distilling apparatuses are used to produce large quantities of spirits and they ensure that any defects or impurities are eliminated thanks to the cyclic rhythm of the production process. A much more craft-based approach, the discontinuous method utilizes equipment that has to be completely cleaned after each distillation operation.
Sometimes the grape marc that is used for the distillation process has already begun to ferment. This marc comes from grapes that have been put through a process known as "vinificazione in rosso" or "red wine-making". This type is richer in flavor and aromas and tends to ensure a fuller-bodied grappa.
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TO EACH HIS OWN GRAPPA... |
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Like wine, different grappas tend to have different personalities. Young, or white grappa, is either bottled immediately after the distilling process or left to "rest" in airtight containers made from steel, fiberglass or glass. This imbues the grappa with a harmonious structure, a delicate bouquet and mild, dry flavor.
The refined grappa is then left to age for a certain period of time in wooden casks: 12 months for the invecchiata (aged) version; and 18 months for the stravecchia (extra-aged) or riserva (reserve) versions. The wood, which allows the distilled spirits to come into contact with oxygen, causes the grappa to take on a more complex character, imbuing it with a series of aromatic notes that are added to its primary bouquet, while also transforming the color. Depending on the type of wood used in the variously sized barrels, the grappa takes on a warm, rich color that can very from straw yellow to gold, and even amber.
A grappa is designated as a single-grape (monovitigno) variety if at least 85% of the marc utilized comes from just one kind of grape, and multi-grape (polivitigno) if more than one kind of grape has been used. In order to render the grappa even more rich in fragrance, a vast array of products can be used: medicinal herbs, spices, fruit, things like mint, cumin, juniper, sage, eucalyptus, liquorice, berries and so on in order to add medicinal, stimulating and beneficial properties to your glass of grappa.
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To fully appreciate grappa you must know a lot about it. If young, it should be served at a temperature of 8 to 10°C, if aged, from 15 to 18°C. The flavor and appeal of grappa is increased by serving it in a tulip-shaped glass made from fine crystal. This kind of glass allows you to appreciate its color. Young grappas are transparent and clear, whereas the refined, aged varieties have a more decisive tonality.
In addition, the shape of this type of glass holds in all the aroma and bouquet, while the tallness of the glass keeps the liquid far enough from the nose that the alcohol fumes do not overpower the delicate bouquet. The aromatic notes are primary and thus derived from the grapes themselves. The fragrance derived from the aging process, i.e. those that develop with the natural formation of esters and ethers, add fruity notes, recalling the fragrance of strawberries, apples or bananas. There can be floral hints or even mossy, herbal notes. And remember that you should always sip grappa slowly.
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Grappa is generally drunk after a meal. If cooking and serving food is considered an art, then nothing could be more refined than selecting a grappa made from the same grapes as the wine served during the meal.
Grappa, of course, can also be utilized as an ingredient for the preparation of various regional northern Italian dishes. Various pastries, custards and creams are enhanced with grappa to liven up their flavor and it is frequently used to fill chocolates and bite-size pastries. Even fish can be sprinkled with a bit of grappa before serving it as an antipasto or after cooking it over the grill. It can also be brushed over cheeses during the aging process or added to especially rich, heavy sauces in order to render them more digestible.
And recently it has emerged as a popular ingredient in the bar world, where it is featured in Italian-designed cocktails bearing exotic names. Together with a little mint, sugar and ice, for example, grappa makes a great Julep. For a bolt of energy, try some espresso coffee mixed with a shot of grappa, some cinnamon and a clove. And be sure to try it mixed with a sparkling glass of Prosecco and some grapefruit juice.
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There's a delightfully large array of herbal grappas to select from, depending on what you want. If you opt for a classic grappa alla ruta, or rue grappa, you will benefit from the medicinal properties of this particular herb, known for its stimulating and diuretic effects as well as its antispasmodic action on the intestine.
Blueberries, red currents and raspberries provide a healthy shot of vitamins and if you select a sage grappa you will benefit from this herb's ability to restore balance to the digestive system while combating asthenia, or general fatigue.
These are just a few examples of the many different types of grappa. You can be sure grappa has reached perfection when it displays crystal-clear transparency, a fine yet intense aroma and a harmonious, persistent flavor that continues to linger pleasantly on the palate.
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