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Balancing the food-wine equation
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One of the sommelier's most valued skills is his ability to come up with the perfect wine to complement any dish.
This is a delicate task because the variables in such an equation are endless and innovative solutions are not always greeted with the enthusiasm they perhaps deserve. It is no coincidence then that professional courses for sommeliers leave the study of choosing wine to complement food until the third year, and that this represents a major hurdle for many students. |
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With the right proportions, and without overlooking the fact that the wine cellar a sommelier has at his disposal is unquestionably larger and better stocked than any household one, we ought to learn a few useful golden rules.
In past times the quest for the perfect food-wine combination was almost a philosophical pursuit, but without taking things to such extremes, it cannot be denied that today there is renewed interest in enogastronomy.
It is clear that in order to match food and wine a fundamental prerequisite is an expert grasp of organoleptic wine analysis (this technical term is used to describe the analysis of wine in terms of how it affects all the organs of sense). In the same way, however, it is important to have a profound understanding of the nature of the dish to be served with the wine, without having the presumption to encroach upon the chef's role.
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In the light of what we have said so far, nothing stops us applying the same criteria to food as that used when tasting a wine; thus we can carry out a visual assessment of the dish and go on to evaluate the smell before finally tasting it.
The combined result of these three assessments should allow us to form a clearer idea of the characteristics of the dish in question, enabling us to immediately rule out wines that are unsuitable, after which we can begin the delicate task of selecting potentially appropriate wines.
This is a field in which subjectivity and the desire to astound can play a decisive role, but before judging in a dogmatic manner one must give the sommelier (or the host) who suggested such a combination the chance to defend his choice, no matter how unconventional.
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The basic concept is that of establishing a dynamic balance between wine and food, creating a veritable "harmony of flavours".
But which wine goes best with a particular type of pasta? The choice depends neither on the type or shape of the pasta, but on the sauce. For example, Lasagne Bolognese, one of the best-known dishes of Emilian tradition, goes perfectly with a red wine such as Lambrusco or Sangiovese. Greco di Tufo and Vermentino, on the other hand, are good for fish-based first courses which require a dry, aromatic white.
Pasta served with a tomato sauce may be accompanied by a variety of wines, as long as their personality is such as to complement the characteristic flavour of the tomato preserve. A Rosso Conero or a Groppello del Garda are pleasant suggestions, but even whites such as a Pignoletto, go well with certain tomato-based sauces. Likewise a Bonarda Piacentina, or even a nouveau Teroldego may be served with a dish of Tortellini cooked in clear capon soup. Broadly speaking, the general rule is that white wines accompany light fish- or vegetable-based sauces and reds richer ones. At first this approach may seem rather mechanical, but, as with all techniques, after an overly rationalistic beginning the combinations come by themselves.
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Tradition is always on hand to help us. Lambrusco, for example, plays an essential role in Emilian cuisine because, thanks to its acidic, slightly sparkling character, it counters fat-rich fare such as cotechino (pork sausage) or zampone (an Italian sausage product stuffed in a pig's trotter). The same goes for the tradition of uncorking a bottle of spumante at the end of lunch or dinner when sweets and desserts are being served.
We could list countless such examples, but we must never forget the old saying de gustibus non est disputandum, which roughly translated means "there is no accounting for taste". The technique of establishing which wine to serve with any given dish is designed in fact to guide one in the choice of wine according to logical schemes, but there is nothing to prevent anyone washing down a plate of spaghetti with mussels with a glass of Sangue di Giuda, a sweet wine of Lombard tradition.
It follows therefore that the classic fish-white wine and game-red wine combinations, etc. need not be observed dogmatically, but should be considered a rational basis for a starting point, which may be overturned on occasion. When choosing the right wine to go with cheeses you should take into account the fat content of the latter. A general rule to be borne in mind is that light reds or dry whites work well with fresh cheeses, whereas mature and pungent cheeses are best with fuller-bodied reds.
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Choosing wine to go with food also means organizing the succession of different wines from starter to dessert, if the menu involves this.
Remember that we start with whites, move on to rosés, reds, aromatic wines and then fortified wines last of all. In a similar way, younger wines come first, followed by those aged for just a few years, and lastly great wines aged at length. However, in any case the following rule should be observed: wines should be served in ascending order of alcohol content to prevent any undesirable "jolts" backward and forward.
There are all sorts of manuals and guidebooks for learning the art of matching wine with food, nonetheless it can be helpful to keep a notebook for writing down wines chosen to go with dishes that are routinely made at home.
This can be seen as the first step in a world full of rules... which are revised on a daily basis.
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