|
|
 |
Mushrooms, know how to recognize them
|
The region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the northeast of Italy is a real paradise for mushroom connoisseurs, especially the Carnia region, on the border with Austria, where you'll find every variety, from chanterelles to parasol mushrooms and the highly-prized porcini.
In the fall it's always a lot of fun to go picking mushrooms and it's quite common to find some really nice ones. The first rule, however, is to gather only mushrooms you are absolutely sure about and, if in doubt, be sure to get an expert opinion in order to avoid unpleasant surprises. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
GATHERING MUSHROOMS: A PICKER'S GUIDE |
|
|
Mushroom picking is strictly regulated by regional laws throughout all of Italy. In order to engage in this enjoyable activity you have to have proper authorization in the form of a valid picker's permit, issued by the local authorities for a small charge.
When it comes to the necessary equipment, all you really need is a little knife and a wicker basket, the latter being preferable over a plastic container as it allows the mushroom spores (which are formed beneath the cap amongst the gills) to fall back to the earth as you walk, promoting the dispersal of new mycelia (masses of filaments that constitute the vegetative body of the mushroom which are found underground and thus not visible). Remember that mushrooms are highly perishable. In order to avoid waste, mushroom experts recommend only picking the amount you intend to actually consume or conserve for later.
|
|
|
|
The first rule when gathering mushrooms is to only pick varieties you definitely know to be edible and safe. Although only a small percentage of the known European mushrooms are truly dangerous (a prime example would be the noxious amanita group: the Amanita phalloides, or death-cup, the Amanita verna and Amanita virosa, or destroying angel), prudence is always the best policy.
In addition to carrying an illustrated manual with you, you can ask for assistance from one of the numerous mushroom associations found in Italy's mountainous regions (for information regarding Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto and Trentino contact the Associazione micologia Bresadola di Trento, tel. 0461 913960). You should also avoid mushrooms that are too old, as they are no longer edible and may have developed toxic substances.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
PORCINI, THE TOP OF THE LINE |
|
|
Of all the species found in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, without a doubt the place of honor goes to the noble porcini, one of the most highly-prized mushrooms anywhere in the world. In Italy the term porcini actually refers to four kinds of mushroom belonging to the Boletus genus, including the Boletus Edulis (the most highly prized) and the Boletus Aereus, found in the Tarvisio forest.
Characterized by a round, brown cap with a diameter of from 5 to 15 cm, the Boletus Edulis has a stem that is white, grayish or white and quite firm. The cap of the Boletus Aereus (also known as the black porcino), which has a dark ochre color, can reach a whopping size, flourishing a cap of some 30 cm in diameter. Due to their lovely fleshy texture, porcini lend themselves to being cooked in a great variety of ways. They are excellent chopped up and simmered with parsley and garlic or simply grilled; they can also be dried or conserved in oil.
|
|
|
|
There are a lot of other mushroom varieties, in addition to porcini, that can be found in abundance in the woods of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. At the base of pine trees in both the mountains and on the lowland plain you'll also find pinaroli mushrooms (Boletus luteus), similar to porcini with their large convex caps, which are, however, orange in color. Excellent preserved in oil, they are also lovely simmered together with parsley and garlic, in pasta sauces and side dishes, as long as you always remember to remove the greasy film that covers them.
The milk-cap (Lactarius deliciosus), known as sanguinelli or lattari in Italy, is another variety that tends to thrive near pine trees. They owe their name to the red or orange milky substance they exude if you break the gills, and they are characterized by a light brown cap interspersed with orange highlights.
Another variety that is very widely found, the honey agaric (Armillariella mellea), known as chiodini in Italy, has a long, slender stem beneath a rather small cap. The honey agarics can be stewed or conserved in oil. You should always remember that it's necessary to lightly boil them for a few minutes before cooking them and they need to be cooked for a long time in order to remove their bitter taste. Honey agarics can be toxic if they are not cooked long enough.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
TWO KINDS OF CHANTERELLES |
|
|
The finferli variety of chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius) is the most common type and they are very highly prized. They have an irregularly shaped cap and are easy to recognize thanks to their yellow or orange-yellow color. They are found in grass and fallen leaves and don't usually grow very close to trees. Also known in Italy as galletti, this particular chanterelle makes a perfect topping for polenta and is also excellent as the principle ingredient in a mushroom soup, served with croutons of fresh bread tossed in melted butter.
The other kind of chanterelles (Cantharellus lutescens), called finerle in Italy, is found in fir and pinewoods throughout all of Italy. They look like the other kind of chanterelle, except that the cap is dark brown on the top and yellow underneath. Very aromatic and flavorful, this particular kind of chanterelle is great in pasta sauces for either dry varieties, like Sedani Rigati or Tagliatelle; they can also be successfully dried.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
THE GREEN RUSSULA AND PARASOL MUSHROOMS |
|
|
Found in great abundance in Friuli, the green russola mushrooms, (one of the best of which is the Russula virescens, also known as the green agaric, or russole in Italian) are found during the summer and autumn months at the edge of the forest. Their color varies from purple to gray or olive green and frequently all these delightful hues can be found on the same mushroom. .
Quite spectacular (they can reach heights of over a half a meter!), the remarkable parasol mushroom (Lepiota procera), mazze di tamburo in Italian, takes on different appearances depending on the stage of development it is in. The young ones are egg-shaped. Not until a later stage of development does the cap form, not opening completely until the mushroom has reached full maturity. Parasol mushrooms, especially the ones whose caps are still unfurled, are one of the best species for eating raw in salads. It's easy to prepare them. All you have to do is cut them into thin slices, add salt and pepper and marinate them in an emulsion of olive oil and lemon juice.
|
|
|
|
Some of the most highly prized mushrooms are those in the agaric (ovoli in Italian) family. Great in salads or baked, with potatoes and parsley, these delicately flavored mushrooms owe their name in Italian to the white membrane they are wrapped in at an early stage of their growth process, making them resemble an egg (uovo in Italian). This same membrane can lead unwitting people to mistake the poisonous versions (Amanita muscaria, fly agaric, and Amanita phalloides, death-cup) for the royal agaric (Amanita caesarea), ovolo buono in Italian. The agarics grow in oak forests and pinewoods and once they have matured they flourish a bright yellow cap on a yellow stem with a fleshy texture.
|
|
|
|
|
