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Pecorino toscano DOP
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Identity Card
Name: Pecorino toscano DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta- Protected Denomination of Origin)
Type of product: soft or semi-hard cheese produced with whole sheep's milk
Area of production: all of Tuscany, and the Umbrian towns of Allerona and Castiglione del Lago and Lazio's communities of Acquapendente, Onano, San Lorenzo Nuovo, Grotte di Castro, Gradoli, Valentano, Farnese, Ischia di Castro, Montefiascone, Bolsena and Capodimonte |
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FROM ANCIENT ROME TO TODAY |
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The origins of Tuscan Pecorino have been lost in the mists of time. The first records date back to Roman times and tell of a fine cheese produced in Luni, an Etruscan city in Tuscany. It is no coincidence then that Plinio il Vecchio speaks of the "Lunense", with particular mention to its large size. Many historical references are also to be found in the course of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth centuries and in the "Manuale del Pecoraio" (The Shepherd's Manual) by the canonical Ignazio Malenotti in 1832.
The text tells of the production of two types of pecorino: one that is decidedly strong, whilst the other is sweeter and more delicate. But from the mid-Nineteenth century its characteristics are defined, along with the processes and production techniques of what is to become fresh or dry Tuscan Pecorino, produced with DOP certification (Denominazione di Origine Protetta- Protected Denomination of Origin) since 1996.
The story of Tuscan Pecorino also consists of curious little-known anecdotes. For example, legend has it that a variation of Tuscan Pecorino, produced in the area of Crete Senesi, was much prized from the mid-Fifteenth century, not only by Lorenzo the Magnificent, Lord of Florence, but also by Pio II Piccolomini, the humanist pope who even ordered that cheeses produced on the best farms be stamped.
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THE SECRETS OF ITS MAKING |
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Pecorino toscano DOP is only produced using whole milk from sheep fed predominantly on green forage or hay. The milk is coagulated at a temperature of 35-38°C, with the addition of calf's rennet. Once upon a time the coagulation of the milk was made using wild thistle, left to soak in salted vinegar or left to dry and then soaked in warm water.
The next step involves breaking the curds into pieces the size of a nut for the soft cheese, and to pieces the size of a kernel of corn for the semi-hard cheese. In this case, the curds are cooked for 10-15 minutes at a temperature of 40-42°C, to then be left in suitable moulds where it loses the whey. In order to accelerate the release of the liquid, the cheeses may undergo manual pressing or steaming that takes place in cells with temperatures set to 25°C, whilst in some dairies it is still carried out in traditional tanks heated by steam directly introduced at 40°C.
Once salted, the cheese is ready for maturation which takes place in dry, fresh and well ventilated cellars. Soft Pecorino must mature for at least twenty days, whilst the semi-hard one for at least four months. During this period, the cheese is frequently turned, and the layer that forms on the surface is removed with a wooden scraper. When the cheeses are no longer damp, the external rind is protected with olive oil.
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TUSCAN PECORINO WITH MEALS |
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Tuscan Pecorino is an exquisite cheese, and the Denomination of Protected Origin status afforded it by the European Community is recognition of its flavour and status.
With its sweet and delicate flavour, fresh Tuscan Pecorino can be served with salads, vegetable dips, steamed courgettes or preserved mushrooms. It should be accompanied by a basket of homemade Tuscan bread or slightly charred country bread, seasoned with a pinch of pepper and a little olive oil.
The flavour of mature Tuscan Pecorino, on the other hand, is more intense and decided, tending towards strong. It goes well with cured meats and salamis, and may be served flaked with honey, jam and seasonal fruit and vegetables. Apples, pears and figs are particularly well suited.
The mature type is often grated instead of the more traditional Parmigiano Reggiano on to first course pasta dishes as well as tomato and basil spaghetti an Italian classic.
With regards to wine, red wines with an intense fruity and flowery bouquet should be chosen to accompany mature Tuscan Pecorino. The most suitable wines in this case are a Chianti Classico, Morellino di Scansano or Brunello di Montalcino. For the soft cheese, on the other hand, one might choose a more delicate white wine such as the Tuscan Bianco di Pitigliano, Monteregio or Montecucco Bianco wines.
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