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Venetian Flavours
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A journey through Venice's cuisine might start out from the Rialto fish market, a unique place full of life and colour where the price of the fish is always haggled over with a few local Venetian phrases thrown in for good measure. Sea bass, gilt head, mullet, scampi, giant crabs, eel, sole, scallops, moleche (little crabs typical of the lagoon which are in the mutation phase, particularly good for frying) are all fundamental ingredients in Venetian cuisine, which is inextricably linked to fish.
In Venice's typical bacari, which are part wine bar, part inn and part pub, it is possible to eat a whole meal or just taste a few snacks (which in these parts are called cicheti) seated at the counter whilst drinking a glass of wine, better known as an ombra de vin.
A tour of the characteristic shops is a must. An example of these is the Drogheria Mascari (Calle degli Spezieri, San Polo) which features almost one hundred spices and an atmosphere that is colourful and intensely perfumed. It is reminiscent of the centuries during which Venice was the port that supplied Europe with the very same spices that are still skilfully used in the local cuisine.
Traditional dishes feature a great deal of variety: ranging from the 'risi e bisi ', that the Doges used to call for to celebrate the feast of San Marco, or 'pesse in saor' , traditionally made on the eve of the feast of the Redeemer, where the fish is covered with a marinate of fried onions, vinegar, spices, pine nuts and raisins. A secret in the preparation of this dish calls for sprinkling it with a small glass of iced grappa, which counteracts the acidity of the vinegar.
Of the meats, liver prepared 'Venetian style' in a pan with onions occupies a special place, in addition to quail and duck as an accompaniment to cornmeal polenta.
Vegetables also feature; here, radicchio reigns supreme, with room also made for the different types of artichoke. Of all of these, the castraure stand out: these small spring artichokes are slightly bitter in taste as they grow on the islands in water where the sea water filters.
With regards to the desserts, Venetian fried custard is typical: once it has set it is cut into diamond shapes and is then fried in oil. There is an enormous variety of biscuits, ranging from corn flour galletti, known in dialect as zaeti, to the more delicate baicoli. In some patisseries it is still possible to come across caramei, caramelized fruit in pieces threaded onto long sticks. |
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An old inn in the heart of the city, near Campo San Polo and just round the corner from Rialto, it was transformed by Mara and Maurizio Martin into one of the finest restaurants in the city.
Here, in an exclusive and welcoming setting, it is possible to savour excellent traditional Venetian cuisine presented with exquisite twists on the original that always emphasise the early vegetables and the very best seasonal produce. Of the specialities, the sea bass in balsamic vinegar, sliced fillet of tuna with rosemary, the risottos and fried moleche crabs with polenta are particularly worthy of note.
The raw fish appetisers are also excellent. The selection of cheeses is outstanding, as is the range of desserts: chocolate pie and lemon and liquorice sorbet are just some of the most mouth-watering proposals on the dessert list. The wine list excels in quantity and quality, with a good selection of some of the finest Italian and French wines (about 400 labels). The list of grappas, cognacs and whiskeys is equally good.
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Address: Calle del Scaleter 2202/A, San Polo, Venice
Tel: +39.041.721308
Fax: +39.041.721343
Closed: from 25 December to 15 January, from 1 to 22 August; Sundays and Mondays
Capacity: from 45 to 50; booking essential in the evening
Prices: about 80 Euros
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The island of Burano is one of the most enchanting areas on the Venetian lagoon. An island of fishermen, it features colourful houses painted in intense shades of green, purple, yellow, red and cobalt blue, colours that were chosen to make it easier for the fishing boats to return, especially in dense fog.
Amongst the many-coloured houses is Il Gatto Nero, a pleasant, family-run trattoria now in its third generation. Owner Ruggero Bovo prepares a chicheto of sardines in saor or an appetiser with giant crab, baby squid and scallops, or a sea-bream pâté. These are followed by squid ink risotto, pasta with beans or, if they are extremely fresh, pasta with clams.
Of the dishes a mention also goes to the baked and grilled fish, squid with polenta, and little fried moleche crabs.
The list of desserts includes hot zabaglione with biscuits and other homemade desserts.
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Address: Fondamenta Giudecca 88, Burano, Venice
Tel: +39.041.730120
Fax +39.041.735570
Closed: Monday; 15-30 November
Capacity: 100
Prices: 31/52 Euros
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Located near to Ca' d'Oro, it has a terrace overlooking the canal where one can drink a glass of wine and savour a few cicheti, the typical Venetian snacks. It is one of the most famous bacari wine bars in town, a venue reminiscent of days gone by that has preserved its nineteenth-century furnishings, with its old wine shop counter and copper objects scattered around everywhere.
The fish cicheti-marinated anchovies, sardines in saor and cream of dried cod- are delicious, as are the vegetable ones such as stewed artichokes; the renowned meatballs with potatoes must not be missed. For those wanting a complete meal, the excellent bean soup, spaghetti with clams, squid ink pasta, mixed fried fish and the outstanding typical Venetian liver cooked with onions are all worthy of note. The homemade desserts are also very good.
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Address: Ramo Ca d'Oro, 3912 Cannareggio, Venice
Tel: +39.041 52 85 324
Closed: Thursday and Sunday lunchtime; and from 8 to 30 August
Capacity: 50
Prices: about 35 Euros
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Situated in the heart of Venice, near the Rialto bridge, this is an 'ultra-Venetian' restaurant in every sense, starting with its name and continuing with the proverbs written on the beams, all in dialect. It is one of the most legendary restaurants in Italy and proposes cuisine where classical Venetian dishes are combined to good effect with international cuisine, enriched by the touch of chef Lucio Zanon, who for many years worked at Harry's Bar.
The menu changes each day so as to allow the restaurant to offer the season's typical products and the fresh catch of the day. Many of the dishes are fish-based, prepared in every conceivable Venetian variation: giant crab and prawns, tagliolini pasta with lobster and fillet of turbot with asparagus.
The wine list is small but well-selected.
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Information
Address: Calle dei Bombasseri, 5094 San Marco, Venice
Tel: +39.041.5200150
Fax: +39.041.5209389
Closed: Monday
Capacity: 80
Prices: about 65 Euros
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One of the most-frequented trattorias in town where it is essential to book in advance. It is located in the area of Cannaregio, just a short distance from the Jewish ghetto, the oldest in Italy; indeed it would appear that the word "ghetto" actually originated here, from a foundry (getto) located in this area.
The restaurant is family run and the cuisine is traditional, but rendered unusual by a skilful and 'personal' use of the spices. Diners eat cicheti at the counter or at the tables. The menu includes a carpaccio of fish perfumed with thyme and aniseed, risotto with squid ink, tagliatelle with scampi and pumpkin flowers, fried fish and squid with polenta.
Excellent range of cheeses accompanied with honey and sweet fruit pickles. The list of wines features mainly regional wines; the wine sold by the jug is also good.
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Address: Fondamenta de la Sensa, 3272 Cannareggio, Venice
Tel: +39.041.720744
Closed: Monday; last week of August, first week of September, last week of January
Capacity: 60
Prices: about 36 Euros
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