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Exploring the Langhe region
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| Although few regions of Italy evoke such strong feelings of gastronomic and vinicultural tradition, this strip of the southern Piemonte region which slopes south towards Liguria and the sea is also notable for its beautiful countryside. Any visit inevitably begins in the small center of Alba which, through the centuries, has become a focal point of gastronomic culture. |
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The area surrounding Alba is tightly bound into the culture of truffle, that mysterious underground fungus which has been present in the local cuisine for centuries enriching every dish, from the simplest "Tagliolini" (thin egg noodles) to the most elaborate beef filet, with its intense aroma. It is for this very reason that the best time of year to visit this part of Italy is in the fall, between October and November.
During this period the white truffle reaches maturity and therefore, the peak of its flavor. Sliced paper-thin it enhances the flavors of even the simplest local dish. Every year in the month of October, in fact, a festival is held for this most prestigious and valued fungus, the white truffle. The festival, now in its 76th year is filled with events in keeping with the truffle theme and, of course, many opportunities to sample and taste.
A stay of several days would not be complete, however, without sampling a few of the Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto wines that are the pride of the Langhe.
In view of all this, a visit to the castle of Grinzane amounts to a moral obligation for any wine-lover. In addition to an extensive collection of historical memorabilia once belonging to Camillo Benso, the count of Cavour (himself and the wine being the primary local claims to fame), since 1967 it is host to the Piemonte regional "enoteca" (wine shop). |
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It would be a shame, however, to stop at just truffles and wine because these foothills have long been famous for raising varieties of cattle native to the Piemonte region. Piemonte cattle are famed the world over for their monumental size and the quality of their beef. Sheep and lamb also play an important role in the local cuisine in preparations such as lamb "alla Monfortina". Sheep milk is, in turn, the basis of unequalled soft and aged cheeses (most notably "Murazzano" and "Roccoverano" cheeses).
One of the better known establishments offering the specialties of the area is the restaurant "Felicin" in "Monforte d'Alba", a veritable Mecca of local flavors. Visitors with a sweet tooth should not overlook the almond and hazelnut cake with caramel cream; the sweetest way to end a meal dominated by rich local dishes. |
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 Da Felicin
via Vallada 18
Monforte d'Alba (Cuneo)
Tel.: 017.378225
closed: Sunday evening and Monday; open evenings and Saturday lunch
covers: 60
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