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Sicily: Syracuse, Ortigia and surrounding area
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| Syracuse is the Sicilian town that best preserves its examples of the Baroque style. The old historical centre where the people of Syracuse meet up is like an open air sitting room. At sundown, when the limestone houses are lit up in shades of pink, it becomes truly evocative. Taste buds, on the other hand, are whetted by the typical dishes of Sicilian cuisine that are offered in a myriad of small eateries scattered throughout the town's labyrinthine streets. |
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The architectural marvels of Syracuse can principally be admired within its oldest part: the small island of Ortigia, or "U scogghiu" as Syracusians call it.
On passing Ponte Nuovo, which connects the island to the mainland, one comes to the remains of one of the rare examples of Doric architecture still standing: the seventh-century temple of Apollo.
Not far away, the picturesque open air market is one of the destinations most favoured by tourists in search of the best local products: citrus fruits, Pachino tomatoes, ultra-fresh seafood and even cheeses, cured meats, honey and olive oil from the nearby Iblei mountains.
After exploring the maze of alleys, courts and small squares that enhance the island's charm, one resurfaces in the beautiful Piazza del Duomo. A series or palazzos recognised as some of the best examples of Sicilian Baroque overlook the square: Palazzo del Senato, Palazzo Arcivescovile and Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco. The stratified architecture of the Cathedral is, however, even more astonishing. The façade is Baroque, but the columns of the majestic Temple of Athena, built in the 5th century BC, can still be seen as they were incorporated into the present structure.
This piazza sees the start of the nineteenth-century Via Roma where, to enjoy a good glass of Nero d'Avola or Moscato di Siracusa, one can call in at the Solaria wine bar. It is a characteristic venue where the atmosphere of the "putia" is still very much alive ("putia" being the wine shops where workers and cart-drivers would lunch in the early twentieth century).
On arriving at the end of the road, a visit to the Galleria Regionale, housed in the rooms of Palazzo Bonomo, is highly recommended. Of the works on display, two masterpieces of painting stand out here: the Annunciazione by Antonello da Messina and il Seppellimento di Santa Lucia by Caravaggio.
Via Capodieci affords two enticing opportunities for letting oneself be tempted by the local gastronomy. La Foglia is a trattoria where one can listen to classical music whilst savouring Mediterranean and vegetarian specialities; then there is Da Mariano, hidden away in an alley and one of the few restaurants that still proposes the traditional dishes of the Iblei mountains, such as almond pasta, salt ricotta ravioli and cavatelli pasta in a pork sauce.
By continuing on to the end of the street, one comes to one of the island's main attractions: the Aretusa fountain, a fresh water source linked to the love story between the nymph Aretusa and the river god Alfeo.
Beyond the fountain, the furthest tip of the island finds Castello Maniace, a XIII century military fortification which each summer plays host to the music and theatre performances of the Festival of Ortigia, which also involves other charming corners of the town.
Returning towards Piazza del Duomo, another area featuring a host of attractions is Giudecca, the ancient Jewish quarter, dismantled in 1493 following the issuing of an imperial edict. In particular, Palazzo Bianco located in this area is worth visiting, inside which the Byzantine-era "miqwe" or purification bath was found during restoration work; it is one of the oldest in Europe.
The part of the city erected on the mainland is also full of attractions for fans of history and art. One of the most interesting points is the archaeological site of Neapolis, home to the majestic Greek Theatre, Roman Theatre and the Latomia del Paradiso, an enormous limestone quarry used since ancient times for the construction of buildings and walls that conceal evocative places such as the Grotta dei Cordari and another cavern known as "Orecchio di Dioniso" (the Ear of Dionysus).
Another interesting area not far from the archaeological park is the Basilica of San Giovanni Evangelista: right underneath the church it is possible to visit a part of the intricate labyrinth of the catacomb tunnels that spread out over approximately 10 kilometres squared. |
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OUTSIDE THE CITY: PAPYRUS AND FLAMINGOS |
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For a tour of the surrounding area of Syracuse, a trip to the source of the river Ciane is well worth considering. It is necessary to travel up the river from the salt flats to the source, which is immersed in the midst of vineyards and citrus fruit orchards; it is a natural reserve populated with numerous species of aquatic birds, (cormorants, herons, stilts, royal swans, ducks, flamingos and moorhens) as well as papyrus plants which grow naturally here.
Moving further south along the coast, one comes to some of the most beautiful beaches in Syracuse, from the most frequented ones on the Maddalena peninsula, a fashionable holiday destination in the Fifties, to the wilder beaches of the Oasi di Vendicari.
Continuing along the same road one reaches Avola; the village's name is linked to the wine Nero d'Avola, responsible for exporting the flavours of Sicily the world over.
After leaving Oasi di Vendicari, on passing the village of Marzamemi where director Gabriele Salvatores filmed a number of scenes from Sud, one comes to the solitary area of Capo Passero. Along with the island of Correnti, it is the southernmost tip of Sicily: clean beaches, small art centres and elegant residences are available for those wishing to stop over. Not far from the Vendicari beach one comes to the farm holiday house Il Roveto, the oldest on the island: it is a Baroque house surrounded by vineyards, citrus fruit orchards and almond trees. |
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 Acanto
Address: Via Roma 15, Ortigia, Syracuse
Tel: +39.0931.21.270
Prices: double (with breakfast) from 70 Euros
E-mail: info@bebsicilia.it
Website: www.bebsicilia.it
In the heart of Ortigia set between the ancient palazzos and the sea is a welcoming bed & breakfast with sixteen quiet rooms (also singles, triples and quadruples). Familiar yet elegant atmosphere.
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