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The hidden beauties of the Riviera di Ponente
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| Green hills covered with vineyards, medieval villages imbibed with the scent of the sea, the silence and tranquillity typical of places that are hidden away: this is the face of Liguria presented to those arriving at the Riviera delle Palme in the province of Savona. This tour takes in typical views and venues that restore both the spirit and the palate. |
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One of the most attractive places on the coast that runs from Savona to Finale Ligure is Noli, a typical medieval village crisscrossed by narrow carruggi (the tight streets typical of Liguria's villages) and is surrounded by imposing walls that still preserve 8 of the 72 original towers.
Strolling through Noli's alleys is like going back in time, especially when one glances up to see the outline of Castello di Monte Ursino dominating the inhabited centre from atop a hill.
The people of Noli, not surprisingly, are very much linked to their past: every year, the 7th of August sees the commemoration of the era of the V Seafaring Republic, celebrated with parades in costume that recall the signing of the treaty of independence from the Marquises of Carretto, with which Noli became a free municipality in 1192.
The sea along this stretch of coastline is clean and teeming with fish. In particular the uninhabited island of Bergeggi, where the crystalline water invites you to discover its underwater side, sometimes finds schools of anchovies, sardines, needle fish and damselfish; the cliffs, on the other hand, are home to sea urchins, starfish and murex.
Noli is one of the few places where traditional fishing is still carried out with the sciabica, a net of extremely ancient origins introduced in Liguria by the Arabs almost one thousand years ago. They are used to fish cicciarelli, little silvery fish without scales that are also known as lussi or lussotti. When fried, cicciarelli are a veritable delight which, along with many other sweet and savoury delicacies, tempt passers-by from the shop windows in via Colombo.
The main carruggio in Noli is in fact a succession of delicatessens, bakeries and patisseries that meet a variety of needs. From Noli's baci to the soft amaretti biscuits of Pasticceria Scalvini to fisherman's bread (a speciality including raisins, pine nuts and candied fruits) and every mouth-watering kind of focaccia (with vegetables, cheeses, herbs, sesame seeds...) prepared by the Maio brothers. Pastificio Rosalba sells borage ravioli, trofie, pansotti, local olives, Genoese-style stuffed beef (cima alla Genovese) and Pasqualina savoury tarts, not to mention the excellent pesto prepared according to the traditional recipe with basil from Albenga, pine nuts, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and extra virgin olive oil. |
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EXCURSIONS INTO THE SURROUNDING AREAS |
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Leaving behind Capo Noli and heading towards Varigotti, one comes to an enticing stretch of coastline with rock walls that plunge into the sea which conceal little bays and tiny isolated sandy beaches.
A delightful fisherman's village with a handful of pastel-coloured houses atop a beach, a few metres from the sea, Varigotti is a unique corner of paradise in Liguria; unlike the rest of the Riviera, the Aurelia road here does not divide this little seaside village.
Behind Noli, the uplands of Manie provide more adventurous tourists with the possibility to make trips on foot or by mountain bike in the midst of unspoilt nature. Pines, evergreen oaks, juniper and broom scent the air along with the rosemary and other herbs that are used by the countless restaurants that line the uplands to flavour their dishes. Stuffed Agnolotti with borage, rabbit with herbs, wild boar stew, cheeses and savoury tarts with wild herbs are just a few of the specialities propose by the simple and genuine local cuisine, to be accompanied by one of the wines produced in the area: red or white Nostralino served in a jug and Pigato, a refined white of character with a nose that recalls ripe fruit, wild herbs, honey and almonds. Characteristic of the westerly Riviera di Ponente between Albenga and Savona, Pigato is ideal with first course pasta dishes with pesto and the seafaring dishes so typical of Liguria. |
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 Residenza Palazzo Vescovile
Address: via Al Vescovado 13, Noli, Savona
Tel: +39.019.7499050
Prices: a double room in high season, about 170 Euros
A hotel in an ancient palazzo with splendid views over the Gulf of Noli. Eleven rooms and two suites, with an excellent fish restaurant for romantic evenings on the terrace.
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