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Bologna: culture and relaxation
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| The capital of the region of Emilia is also the food capital of Italy and one of the most sumptuous cities in terms of artistic riches and cultural activities. The university, historical piazzas and famous porticoed walkways symbolise the Bologna that has been celebrated by artists and literati throughout history. |
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THE CITY'S BEAUTIES AND TREASURES |
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When visiting the capital of Emilia, one can start out from Piazza Maggiore, the heart of the city and historical centre which has preserved its medieval charm. The Palazzo Comunale (the Municipal Palazzo with its monument to Pope Gregory XIII), Palazzo del Podestà, Palazzo dei Notai and the majestic Basilica di San Petronio, with its magnificent Porta Magna by Jacopo della Quercia, all look onto the square. Just a step away is Piazza del Nettuno, with the homonymous sixteenth-century fountain in the middle dominated by the statue of the god of the sea, created by Flemish sculptor Jean de Boulogne da Douai, known as "il Giambologna".
The city's symbols are the Due Torri (Two Towers), the Asinelli tower and Garisenda tower. The first is the tallest in the city and was built at the start of the thirteenth century: it is 97.2 metres high and 8 wide. The second, which leans towards her "older sister", was begun in the same period and should have reached the same height. But half way through its construction it began to lean so much that work was suspended. Dante was in Bologna at the time, and was so struck by the angle of the two towers that he wrote a number of verses dedicated to them in the Divine Comedy.
The Archiginnasio, home to the University until 1803, is well worth a visit. Today this palazzo houses the largest Italian municipal library: on entering, one has the sensation of disappearing into a wonderful gallery full of art and treasures. One should not miss the seven thousand-plus stemmas of students and masters who frequented the university, collected on the first floor in the masterpiece hall attributed to the "Stabat Mater".
Leaving the university's historical home behind, one continues on towards Piazza Santo Stefano, overlooked by the basilica of the same name, an extremely old complex known as the Sette Chiese or Seven Churches. A tight-knit grouping of sacred buildings, cloisters, courtyards, crypts and colonnades bearing witness to a Bologna that dates back to before the 11th century, and which is linked to those early, mysterious centuries of the Christian era.
Bologna's porticoes are unique; overall they total 35 kilometres in length, a world record. By strolling beneath these porticoes, it is possible to go as far as the Basilica of St. Luca, situated in the hills just outside the city and from where one can enjoy a breathtaking view of Bologna and the plains of the Po. |
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IN SEARCH OF RELAXATION AND ENTERTAINMENT |
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In Bologna, coffee lovers can call in on the various Mokarabia Coffee Bars: here one can savour the highly fragrant espresso coffees made with 100 percent Arabica, or coffees enhanced with other ingredients (cream, liqueurs, cocoa, hazelnuts and even pepper). The evening is the time to indulge in an aperitif, and one can choose from a myriad of alternatives: a cocktail at Caffé Martini, under the portico right in front of Palazzo della Mercanzia, one of the oldest in the city; a glass of champagne at Cafè de Paris, under the flowering gazebo with live DJ; a glass of good wine and a few slices of mortadella at the Godot Wine Store overlooking Piazza Santo Stefano. In similar locations, one snack often leads to another and the aperitif hour merges into dinner time. Here we would recommend the modern Godot Wine Bar (sister bar of the Godot Wine Store), which is a sober yet elegant venue proposing cured meats, cheeses, as well as excellent seasonal dishes by Chef Francesco Guerra, and exceptional wines selected by Fabio Giavedoni: over 1,000 Italian labels featuring home-grown classics from Tuscany and Sicily as well as foreign wines imported direct from California, Chile, Australia and New Zealand.
Another recommended venue is the Divinis, a wine bar with kitchen which in just two years has been meeting with a great deal of success amongst connoisseurs.
The Poco Loco, outside the city walls, is a favourite with the Bolognesi. It has a Latin feel with majolica tiles, and serves cappuccinos and brioches in the morning whilst at midday it serves light lunches. After 22.30, it becomes a meeting point for deciding on the course the evening is to take. From here it is easy to head on into the more industrial areas where the trendiest venues are situated, such as Ruvido, one of Bologna's most well-known nocturnal destinations and ex-cabaret house that played to comedians such as Luttazzi, Gioele Dix, Vito, Comaschi, Vergassola and Riondino. |
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 Da Sandro al Navile
Address: via Sostegno 13, loc. Borgo al Navile
Tel: +39.051.63.40.383
Prices: double B&B 130 Euros
Credit cards: all
Six rooms in Provencale style just outside the city centre alongside an excellent quality restaurant.
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