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The Navigli, Milan's Montmartre
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| A working-class area with extremely old origins which experienced an upturn about twenty years ago, now considered one of the trendiest and liveliest areas for Milanese nightlife. A trip through it reveals the history and secrets of the Navigli area of Milan, uncovering workshops and tiny old-world shops as well as trendy venues and artist studios. |
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A port-city with canals and small lakes that allowed people and supplies to be transported into the centre. Most people would be amazed to discover that the city in question is Milan, and not one of the many seaside resorts.
In the sixteenth century, the city had a circular port known as the Cerchia dei Navigli (Circle of the Navigli) and three smaller ports connected to it: the Santo Stefano lake (today Piazza Santo Stefano) for unloading the marble destined for building the cathedral, the lake of San Marco (today Piazza San Marco) and the lake of Sant'Eustorgio, which today is the Darsena (Dock) of Porta Ticinese. A mirror-like pool of water which is still visible, marked out by Viale D'Annunzio and Viale Gorizia. Aside from the Darsena, nothing else is left to see of this ancient port system as it was filled in between the late nineteenth century and the Thirties.
For those wishing to get to grips with the city's port features, the best thing is a stroll in the area around the Darsena, or better still a pleasant trip beyond the gates along Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese. Linked to the Darsena, Naviglio Grande brings the water of the Ticino to Milan and is considered by historians to be the oldest navigable canal in Europe. Estimated and measured by Leonardo da Vinci, it is also known as the Maggiore canal and is the only one of the Milanese canals which has maintained its classification as a navigable canal. Leaving the Darsena we come to Naviglio Pavese, which whilst having distant roots is still the most modern: its construction was ordered by Napoleon Bonaparte in the early nineteenth century, and it was completed by the Austrians in 1819, with the monumental water stair of Pavia, designed to overcome the 29-metre drop from the terrace of the plains to the Ticino river. |
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Strolling through the Navigli area means discovering the history of one of the oldest and most interesting areas in Milan, which in the last twenty years has become a meeting place for artists and intellectuals as well as a reference point for Milanese nightlife. So much so that it is known as a kind of Milanese Montmartre, where Bohemian lifestyles and activities are copied. The transformation has involved every aspect of this corner of the metropolis, starting with the "railing houses": until a short while ago they were in a bad state of repair, whilst now they constitute the most sought-after address in the city.
The shops on Ripa di Porta Ticinese and Alzaia Naviglio Grande have become small outlets that sell unusual collector's items. Alongside the shops, the old haberdasher's, the stationer's of yesteryear and brand shops one can find galleries and art ateliers where young emerging artists exhibit their works alongside more well-known artists. Quite often these laboratories are located inside small internal courtyards with flowering window boxes and shutters either thrown open or just closed-to. Walking into one of these courtyards is an experience to be tried: just a few steps from the centre, one has the sensation of being in a country farmhouse. The noise of the city is but a distant memory: its courtyards feature the shop fronts of craftsmen such as glass-makers, carpenters and marble workers.
For those who then wish to take a trip beyond the city gates (perhaps even by bicycle) on a quest for the hidden treasures scattered along the Naviglio Grande, we recommend following the Cicloalzaia, the cycle path that leaves the Darsena and arrives as far as Castelletto di Abbiategrasso, where the canal turns northwards and reaches its source in the Park of the Ticino. The banks are dotted with churches and mills, farmhouses and villas which all create panoramas well worth discovering. |
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 Osteria di Porta Cicca
Address: Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 51 - Milan
Telephone: +39.02.8372763
Closed: Saturday lunchtime and Sunday
Prices: from 25 to 50 Euros
A small and welcoming venue that changes the menu every two months. Traditional recipes with a creative touch are served, such as broad bean soup with dumplings, smoked ham and thyme, and the pan-fried monkfish with seaweed and saffron Basmati rice. The wine list is also interesting, with 200 labels that are mainly Italian and French.
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