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A tasting trip in ancient Tuscia
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| History, art and nature combine in Tuscia, land of the Etruscans. In the outlying areas of Tuscany and just one hour from Rome, upper Lazio is a area well worth discovering. Its treasures include the wild landscapes of the Maremma, archaeological sites and medieval towns, together with a simple local cuisine that features genuine products cultivated on ancient estates that are often transformed into farm holiday businesses. |
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TARQUINIA, HEART OF ETRURIA |
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| Just an hour from Rome, the upper Lazio area is a calm oasis where life still follows ancient rhythms. The soft and wild landscapes combined with a tradition of farming which boasts excellent typical products- such as the Canino extra-virgin olive oil and the Tarquinia artichoke- cannot cast aside history, which has left indelible signs here. There is a wealth of Etruscan necropolises hidden away in places where splendid medieval towns then sprang up. The most illustrious example of this is Tarquinia, the real heart of ancient Etruria. There are a great deal of necropolises in the area, with Barbarano Romano, San Giuliano and Blera all meriting a visit as well as Tarquinia itself, where it is still possible to see the famed fresco-adorned tombs. The city, immersed in peaceful and enchanting countryside, is surrounded by high walls and dominated by eighteen medieval towers. A stroll through the narrow streets of the centre takes one to churches, palazzos and ancient houses built from limestone. Around Piazza Cavour, the medieval quarters are full of craft workshops selling artistic leather and ceramic objects; archaeology lovers will be astounded by the Etruscan treasures conserved at the national archaeological museum housed in the fifteenth-century palazzo of cardinal Vitelleschi. A gastronomic visit to one of the many trattorias in the centre allows the visitor to discover Tuscia's typical dishes: simple and delicious specialities such as acquacotta, made with vegetables, spices, olive oil and stale bread which here, as in Tuscany, does not contain any salt. It would appear that this habit derives right from the Etruscan people. |
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IN TUSCANIA, LAND OF THE BUTTERI |
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isolated holiday farms. Casa Caponetti, in a splendid position on a hill right in front of the medieval town of Tuscania is one example, as is the La Bicoca farm set in 900 hectares on the road to Vetralla.
In Tuscania too, a relaxing holiday immersed in nature can be combined with an interest in art and archaeology. The centre is a real jewel of medieval architecture with narrow streets paved in stone surrounded by crenellated walls. Just outside on the hill of San Pietro finds the meeting of two Romanesque treasures: the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore and the basilica of San Pietro. The latter, in a position dominating the summit of a hill is enclosed by an ancient wall that protects it from the outside. In front of the parvis is a large field from where the view takes in the hills; the naves contain splendid Etruscan sarcophagi waiting to be admired. An island of peace where time seems to stand still. |
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 Casa Caponetti
Address: Tenuta del guado antico, provincial Vetralla-Tuscania road - Tuscania (VT)
Tel: +39.0761.435792
Fax: +39.0761.444247
Prices: 95 Euros per double room including breakfast
Internet: www.casacaponetti.com
Six double rooms with independent entrances in a holiday room with 50 hectares of land including 10 hectares of Etruscan necropolis, run by the Caponetti family. From the main house, surrounded by a garden with a gazebo, one can enjoy a splendid view of the town of Tuscania and the surrounding hills. A restaurant for guests serves dishes prepared using the oil and organic produce grown on the farm.
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