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Turin the youthful
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| Art, chocolate and nightlife all come together in Turin. The ancient Savoy capital has cast off its guise of the hardworking lady and has once again become a lively artistic centre which is a fulcrum for styles and trends. It is a city where novelties, both culinary and otherwise, blend with traditions that in some cases have been rediscovered whilst others had never been set aside. All of which just goes to prove that if a place is known as the home of chocolate then it cannot be all that grey. |
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By definition, Turin is the capital of chocolate. A tempting tour of the beauties of this sober yet elegant city must therefore begin at the old chocolate houses with their bewitching shop windows. First stop is Bicerin, the café frequented by Count Cavour who would come here to recharge after the rigours of politics, located in Piazza della Consolata. Since 1763, this bar, which still preserves its nineteenth-century décor, has served customers a mixture of coffee, chocolate, milk and syrup (known as a "bicerin"), becoming a cornerstone of local tradition. After having restored body and spirit with this delicious drink, a stroll through the main streets of Turin takes one up to the Palazzo Reale complex. In Piazza Castello, the sight of the historical buildings is truly monumental: one of the city's oldest constructions in the city, Palazzo Madama, lies alongside the seventeenth-century residence. In the centre of the square, one can also see the Chiesa di San Lorenzo, another monument to European Baroque designed by Guarino Guarini. History narrates that it was the dukes of Savoy who ordered that the façade of San Lorenzo should be so anonymous, irritated as they were by the beauty of Guarini's initial design which risked casting the other buildings in the square, symbols of their power, into the shadows.Just a short distance from Piazza Castello soars Turin's symbol, the Mole Antonelliana: 167 metres in height for what was originally intended in 1863 to be a synagogue but which now hosts the National Cinema Museum. At this point one should head towards Corso Moncalieri, where the famous patisserie Peyrano makes spiced cocoa grissini stuffed with a risen paste. |
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But aside from all the tradition, in recent years Turin has also shown that it is young at heart and capable of seizing international trends and re-launching them with its own inimitable style. The best place to see this change taking place is the Quadrilatero Romano, the area marked out by Via Garibaldi, Via XX Settembre, Piazza della Repubblica and Via Bligny, which covers the area where ancient Roman castrum once lay. One of the most unusual venues is undoubtedly Sibiriacky in Via Bellezia, specialising in Siberian cuisine. Fusion Café in Via Sant'Agostino, on the other hand, aims to combine food and art in a suggestive kind of hospitality. The cuisine, the architectural style, the odours and the music in this venue contain Italian, French and Oriental elements, whilst presenting itself as an exhibition space for both established and emerging artists. The palazzo which housed the first Gazzetta del Popolo in Via Conte Verde is now home to Paris Texas, a well-frequented bar for aperitifs furnished with Sixties-style psychedelic colours; it often serves as an atelier for young Turin artists. Via San Agostino also finds a venue very much in vogue with the aperitif set, Vineria Tre Galli, where one can try wines from all over Italy and abroad accompanied by excellent food. The Murazzi area is the real favourite for meeting up, particularly in the summer: the long path along the river Po built by Napoleon was recently saved from decay by the arrival of thriving restaurants, venues and nightclubs which have brought young people back into the area. One is really spoilt for choice here: for dancing, the most popular spots are Alcatraz, with its New York atmosphere, and Jammin'. Fans of black music should head for Doctor Sax, whilst those who enjoy Latin music will love Olé Madrid, where picturesque murals provide a background to Spanish cuisine and music. |
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Hotel Concord Address: Via Lagrange, 47 Telephone: 011.5176756 Fax: 011.5176305 Prices: 280 Euros, including breakfast Internet: www.atahotels.it E-mail: prenotazioni@hotelconcord.com
In the heart of the historical centre, this luxury hotel has 139 rooms including 5 suites. The hotel restaurant distinguishes itself for attentive service and refined interpretations of traditional Piedmont cuisine.
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