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Maremma Flavours
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| The Maremma region is the home to traditional country dishes full of genuine delights. It is also home to famous vines destined to woo world experts; a region where the sea influence can be seen in the lighter, more aromatic recipes. Here is a glimpse of the many sides of an area where the picturesque villages and breathtaking scenery enchant visitors. |
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Grosseto is the pulsating heart of the Maremma, the ideal city from which to begin a sightseeing and gastronomy tour of the area. The historical centre was walled in by the Medici family at the end of the Sixteenth century, giving it its characteristic hexagonal shape. The city possesses splendid buildings such as the Gothic church of San Francesco, where fourteenth-century frescoes by the Nasini brothers stand out along with a wooden cross painted by Duccio di Buoninsegna. But in Grosseto, capital of the Maremma region, it is also possible to purchase the products of the countryside which make Tuscany a firm favourite with the most demanding gourmets, such as pecorino cheese, DOC olive oil and fragrant salamis.
To find the classic Maremma of the horseback cowherds and the great expanses of colourful countryside, one need only leave the city and head for one of the villages near Grosseto. Going north one comes to Montepescali, a small village where one can enjoy a priceless view. Its church, named after San Niccolò, holds a surprise in store in the form of a beautiful altarpiece portraying the Madonna and Child with the Saints by Matteo di Giovanni dating to 1480. Here it is possible to savour cuisine which closely follows recipes of days gone by such as the classic acquacotta, the typical soup of the cowherds. Continuing on, one reaches the town of Massa Marittima. Its complex of Medieval-origin buildings makes it one of the most fascinating places in the area. The majestic Romanesque-Gothic style Cathedral of San Cerbone on Piazza Garibaldi, for example, does not pass unnoticed. Nor does the nearby Palazzo Pretorio, which after having housed the podestà, heads of Justice and royal representatives is now home to the Archaeological Museum and the Picture Gallery.
But the Maremma does not stop at the inland areas. So why not head towards the sea to Castiglione della Pescaia, where one can dive into the recipes of the Tuscan Riviera, amidst the delights of this terrace on the Tyrrhenian sea? Freshly-caught fish, of course, features heavily in the regional gastronomy, boasting numerous restaurants where one can get carried away with the Chef's proposals. |
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South of Grosseto lies the reign of Scansano, the other main town of the Maremma. Recent digs have shown that there was a flourishing Etruscan centre in the area, although Scansano only became famous in the early sixteenth century when many well-to-do Tuscan families chose it as their home for the beautiful landscapes and the health-giving air. Now Scansano's fame lies undoubtedly in a renowned wine, Morellino, a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata- Controlled Denomination of Origin) wine which derives from the Sangiovese grape variety. It goes well with the regional cuisine, with its simple yet strong flavours.
Continuing on to the sea, one comes to Magliano in Toscana, an enchanting village enclosed within impressive walls which were put up in the fourteenth century by the Republic of Siena. Continuing on just a few kilometres, one reaches Porto Ercole in the heart of the lively Argentaria area. In addition to well-frequented beaches, the Roman-origin town holds prized historical monuments in store: the Fortress and the Stella Spanish Forts and Monte Filippo. Another famous tourist destination is Capalbio, home to an imposing fifteenth century fortress frequented by many famous people. Not far away in Garavicchio lies Giardino dei Tarocchi, a garden designed by Niki de Saint Phalle: a fantastic world of sculptures created by the Parisian artist in the heart of the Maremma.
Heading back inland, it is well worth calling in at Montemerano's Ristorante da Caino. The recipient of lofty awards from the best food and wine guides, its creative cuisine is the work of the founder's daughter-in-law, chef Valeria. Finally, a last stop can be made at Saturnia, home of the spas where the sulphurous water regenerates the body. The choice between wellness centres and spa establishments is overwhelming, and there are treatments to suit everyone. |
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 Da Caino
Address: Chiesa, 4 - Montemerano (Gr)
Tel: 0564.602817
Fax: 0564.602807
Closed: Wednesday
Prices: from 70 Euros excluding wines
Internet: www.dacaino.it
E-mail: info@dacaino.it
An elegant restaurant where Valeria, the imaginative chef with the golden touch, prepares dishes in which the history of the Maremma's cuisine is creatively interpreted. So much so that word of the recipes of Ristorante da Caino, including salt cod ravioli with snails and fillet of lamb with cock's crest, leek puree and ox marrow, soon made its way out of Tuscany and into the best Italian food and wine guides.
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