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In Modena and Reggio, on the trail of Balsamic Vinegar
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| Castles and medieval churches form a rather unusual itinerary which follows the tracks of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena and Reggio Emilia. A jewel in the region of Emilia's gastronomic history born in ancient vinegar houses often housed in manors and villas of days gone by. |
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FROM GHIRLANDINA TO THE CASTLES OF THE REGGIO EMILIA APENNINES |
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Medieval charm, art masterpieces and hospitality that is renowned the world over. The region of Emilia conquers admirers with its beauty as well as its inimitable cuisine. A tradition that is able to boast the famous balsamic vinegar, still produced in ancient vinegar houses according to a centuries-old ritual. The itinerary on the tracks of this unique product naturally takes in Modena, moving on to the hills around Reggio Emilia.
Discovering Modena means visiting its magnificent Duomo, which together with the Ghirlandina, its bell tower, is the symbol of the city. It is one of the greatest Romanesque masterpieces, and was designed in 1099 by the architect Lanfranco and the sculptor Wiligelmo. The Duomo looks onto the beautiful Piazza Grande, which conserves the medieval structure of the days when it hosted the market and the city's day-to-day life.
Other landscapes with similar atmospheres are to be discovered leaving the city behind and heading towards the hills of Reggio Emilia's Apennines. This is an area dotted with the ancient castles of Matilde of Canossa, built around the Eleventh century to guard the mountain passes. The ruins of the castle of Canossa are dark and imposing, whilst the well-preserved castle of Rossena towers on a hilltop facing it. The castle of Carpineti is located further south and is worth a visit. This harsh and impenetrable castle dominates the valleys of Secchia and Tresinaro from mount Antoniano. |
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IN SEARCH OF THE VINEGAR HOUSES |
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Balsamic vinegar is a unique product protected by an exceedingly strict consortium. The secrets behind the production lie in the hands of just a few families who hand the recipes and the vinegar houses where the vinegar is produced from generation to generation. In order to identify it, one should notice a dark and shiny colour, whilst the density should be like a syrup. These characteristics go hand in hand with the flavour, which is sour-sweet yet full bodied, with velvety hints and an aroma that is both penetrating yet sweet.
The bouquet is the result of a long and painstaking process, the key stage of which sees the extremely long ageing process of the cooked grape must which is carried out in batteries of casks made using five or six different wood types- chestnut, juniper, mulberry, oak, cherry and ash- and of a small capacity. An extremely long process that lasts from 12 to 25 years, which can be discovered visiting the ancient vinegar houses in the area between Modena and Reggio Emilia. One need only book ahead, and the houses open their doors to tourists. Amongst others, one can make a stop at Acetaia Malpighi (tel. 059.465063) in Modena, which still has period tools and casks as well as a new theme restaurant. Alternatively, one might head for Collegara near the Modena Sud motorway exit and visit the old Acetaia Fabbi (tel. 059.469105), a vinegar house which is located in an Eighteenth-century palazzo.
In the hills of Reggio Emilia, from Scandiano we might follow the signposts for the castle of Montericco di Albinea and from here signs for San Geminiano. Thus one arrives at the San Geminiano farm (tel. 0522.599807), where it is possible to admire a legendary battery of vinegar casks that date back to the Seventeenth century. A little further on, in the vicinity of Albinea, it is worth visiting the vinegar house of the Cavazzone farm (tel. 0522.986054-858100), a genuine Nineteenth-century farm, and the Tenuta di Roncolo farm (tel. 0522.887080), with its attractive manor house set in a 200-hectare hillside estate. |
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 Albergo Canalgrande
Corso Canal Grande, 6
41100 Modena
Tel: ++39.059.217160
Fax: ++39. 059.221674
An Eighteenth-century palazzo in Modena centre near the military academy, offering 68 elegant rooms with damask and frescoed ceilings.
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