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Islands of flavour in the Tuscan sea
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| The Tuscan archipelago, including Elba, Capraia and Giglio, is a harmonious mosaic of landscapes and flavours. Here, fresh caught fish dishes and the dishes of the lands are accompanied by local wines, produced with grapes that grow in terraced vineyards that have been carved out of the harsh coastline with centuries of hard work. |
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ELBA, JEWEL IN THE TYRRHENIAN |
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If, as legend has it, the lesser islands of the Tuscan archipelago are precious stones from some of Venus's jewellery which fell into the sea, then Elba is the most spectacular of all the gems. A land of ports and large beaches but also hills and forests, the island of Elba is dotted with many small villages that can be discovered walking about the island and stopping to try some of the delicious local cuisine, which combines flavours from both land and sea.
The point of disembarkation is Portoferraio, the perfect city which was the brainchild of Cosimo I de' Medici in the Renaissance, and the main port where ferries from the mainland dock. The Medicean walls enclose pastel colour houses dominated by imposing fortifications. The most majestic of these is Forte Falcone, which controls the entire bay from above. From here, by following Via della Regina, one arrives at Palazzina dei Mulini, Napoleon's residence during his Elban exile.
ontinuing on, one reaches Forte Stella from where one may descend into the town centre from a long staircase.
The most famous village inland is Marciana, and here a different and more detached atmosphere prevails. More than any other, it has always maintained its medieval appearance, with houses that look onto its narrow alleys embellished with flower pots, tiny squares and cobbled streets. |
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FROM GIGLIO TO WILD CAPRAIA |
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Wilder and less contaminated, the lesser islands of the archipelago are a fascinating world, although they are not always within the tourist's reach. The only way to admire Montecristo, a natural reserve, and Giannutri, a private island, is to circumnavigate them by boat or organise a short day trip, whilst Pianosa and Gorgona house two penal colonies and are closed to the public.
The island of Giglio, however, is much more welcoming. Although it is now a firm favourite amongst holiday makers, it still has a few spots that are a far cry from mass tourism. The best way to truly discover the island is to leave behind the crowded beaches and stroll around the streets. The island's largest town is Giglio Castello: surrounded by imposing fortified walls, it has maintained its medieval appearance intact, with narrow alleys and external staircases that lead to the houses. On the eastern coast is Giglio Porto, a village of colourful houses crammed in between the hills of vineyards and the sea.
To find the real rugged nature which must once have been common to the entire archipelago, one should however head to Capraia. An island where time has stood still, with just one tarmac road that divides it in two sides: the western side, which is rocky and jagged with precipices overlooking the sea, and the eastern one which slopes gently towards the coast with valleys and hills that are covered with Mediterranean brush. The ideal place then for an adventurous holiday with trekking and diving. |
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THE ARCHIPELAGO OF FLAVOURS |
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| With its perfect synthesis between the coast's marine views and the hilly landscapes inland, the island of Elba has always brought this wealth into the kitchen. Here, seafood dishes with fresh fish from the Tyrrhenian Sea go alongside land-based specialities, crowned by mushrooms, above all the porcini variety, which are easily found in the forests inland. This is simple cuisine par excellence, with a few cornerstones which must absolutely be tried: from cacciucco, the renowned fish soup from Livorno, to stockfish prepared with salted anchovies, onions, green peppers and black olives, to octopus and stuffed sardines. Dishes that are to be savoured with the local wines: Elba, to be precise. White and red re produced with grapes grown on terraced vineyards, like in Liguria. The terraces overlooking the sea are also home to the Ansonica vines, which make a delicate white wine (it can only be drunk there, transporting it ruins the wine) also produced on the island of Giglio. Excellent as an accompaniment for fish, practically the only protagonist featuring in Giglio's cuisine, excepting the renowned coniglio alla cacciatore (hunter-style rabbit) prepared with garlic, white wine, tomatoes and chilli pepper. Amongst Giglio's fish dishes, all the first course dishes with prawns, lobster and clams are worth trying. Second courses to try include the swordfish carpaccio. |
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 La Conchiglia
Via XX Settembre, 43
57033 Marciana Marina - Isola d'Elba (Li)
Tel: ++39.0565.99016
Fax: ++39.0565.99488
A family run hotel with 39 comfortable rooms and a pleasant garden with swimming pool.
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