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The markets of Palermo
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| A visit to Palermo, a city brimming with Mediterranean charm, just wouldn't be complete without surrendering to the charms of at least one of the town's four markets: the Vucciria, Ballarņ, Capo and Borgo Vecchio. Vital manifestations of the true spirit of the capital, they are great places to rub elbows with ordinary people, while indulging in the old-fashioned ritual of haggling with the vendors over the prices of their tantalizing wares. |
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| The Vucciria, not far from the magnificent Greek Orthodox Martorana Church, has never lost an ounce of its original charm. It's one of Palermo's landmarks that must not be missed because it gives you the impression of having stepped backward through time into an earlier century, back to the days when the Arabs still occupied this part of the world. The Ballarņ market, located right next to the train station, has also managed to fend off the onslaughts of modernity. Together with the other two markets - the Capo, located behind the Teatro Massimo, and Borgo Vecchio, near the port - it is probably one of the quaintest and yet most typical parts of a city that has absorbed the colors and fragrances of all the various peoples who have passed this way, contributing to the richness of the Sicilian culture. |
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A CONCENTRATION OF FLAVORS AND ANCIENT TRADITIONS |
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| The thing you are most struck by when you enter one of these kasbahs (the "kasbah" is the old district of the North African cities and the towns of old Moorish Spain, characterized by narrow, winding streets teeming with people and animals) is the cacophony of the venders' chanting voices, emanating from every stand. For the most part incomprehensible due to the fact that these people still use the impenetrable old local dialect with its arcane grammar, these haunting shouts accompany visitors from the moment they arrive until they leave the market precincts. They are markets that must be enjoyed to the hilt, without fear or hesitation. So gather up your courage and forge on, asking fruit vendors which of their beautiful products (always right in season) it would be best to sample. The same thing applies to the bakeries and confectionery shops, places brimming with temptations and indescribable delights, where the best strategy is to take advice from those who have more experience. These markets are like temples consecrated to the celebration of Mediterranean flavors and it would be a gastronomic sin to not have a sandwich of fried eggplant, or one of the thousands of delectable Sicilian confectionery treats. A whole book could be devoted to the "sfinciuni", the Sicilian version of sliced pizza, literally piled high with onion and anchovies, a snack that packs quite a wallop, but something you mustn't fail to try, especially if you find yourself near a bakery or stall selling specialty food items. |
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| If you want to live for a day like the authentic inhabitants of Palermo, you have to make a real effort to live as they do. The best thing is to simply surrender to the vital, joyous mood of the markets, striking up a colorful conversation with one of the fishmongers, who in his Sicilian dialect will invariably attempt to convince the visitor to purchase a slice of fresh swordfish, caught that very morning. And in order to find relief from the relentless heat of the scorching sun, nothing beats a smooth glass of almond milk or an icy granita, delights that are best enjoyed in the midst of the raucous, motley throng of people crowded into one of the congenial bars that punctuate these market districts; uniquely fascinating hangouts. For people who enjoy nightlife, the day will conclude in the area around the Borgo Vecchio Market where a good time is assured for one and all thanks to the many bars and eateries that stay open until the wee hours. |
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 Ristorante Charleston
Viale Regina Elena - 90154
(Mondello)
Tel. 091.455851
Closed: Wednesday (only during the winter)
Seating capacity: 500
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