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The aperitif ritual
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| From a simple late afternoon snack to a proper evening meal. The aperitif ritual has undergone considerable change, particularly in the north of Italy where it has become de rigeur. From Milan's happy hour to the "spritz" in the Veneto and Friuli regions and Turin's "merenda sinoira", it is a virtual journey that reveals the history, traditions and new trends linked to this appetising opportunity to get together. |
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Since ancient times, many populations have preceded dinner with an aromatic drink of varying alcoholic content. The aim was to stimulate the appetite, a function that can also be guessed from the etymology of the word "aperitif", which derives from the Latin word "aperire", meaning to open or start. But the aperitif was also an opportunity to meet, an occasion to socialise whilst sipping a drink.
In time, the drink was accompanied by the traditional snacks as well as pickles, mini pizzas and mini focaccias or more elaborate canapés. But the real revolution in the aperitif ritual has taken place in the last few years. In the larger cities, above all in the north of Italy, young people pour into fashionable bars and open-air squares after work and University courses to sip alcoholic cocktails, often accompanied by snacks that are actually closer to a proper meal. People discuss their day until late, so that in the end the aperitif substitutes dinner entirely. This ritual does, of course, change from city to city. Milan heads the largest of the Italian cities that have made the aperitif into an evening meal, whilst in the south this tradition is less common.
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HAPPY HOUR, A MILANESE TREND |
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When we talk about the aperitif, the first Italian city that comes to mind is Milan, where crisps and a "bianchino" (a glass of sparkling white wine) before dinner are an unmissable tradition. It is precisely in the Lombard capital that the aperitif has changed the most, becoming a genuine fashion phenomenon. On both weekends and weekdays, young people meet up before dinner in the city's hippest venues for the "happy hour", an English tradition that has been changed to suit Italian habits. Whilst it originally referred to the happy hour, generally between 18 and 19) in which alcoholic drinks were half price, for Milan's drinkers happy hour can now last more than an hour (even going on until late evening) and is accompanied by hot and cold food. The olives and nuts have been substituted with sumptuous buffets with pizzas, focaccia breads, fried vegetables, salads and even hot and cold pasta dishes. It is not unusual to see exotic dishes creatively combined with Italian cuisine, such as stew with couscous.
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EACH CITY TO ITS OWN APERITIVO |
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Moving to the north-east, the aperitif is better known as the "spritz", a name that dates back to the period of Hapsburg rule when the Austrian soldiers, who were unable to handle the high alcohol content of wines from the Veneto region, got into the habit of diluting it with water. There is a vast number of spritzers from which to choose, ranging from still to those prepared with seltzer, liqueurs in varying strengths, juice or slices of lemon. These are always accompanied by nibbles, of course.
Moving to the north-east, the aperitif is better known as the "spritz", a name that dates back to the period of Hapsburg rule when the Austrian soldiers, who were unable to handle the high alcohol content of wines from the Veneto region, got into the habit of diluting it with water. There is a vast number of spritzers from which to choose, ranging from still to those prepared with seltzer, liqueurs in varying strengths, juice or slices of lemon. These are always accompanied by nibbles, of course.
The aperitif was thus born in the plains of Padania. It is not surprising then, that it is less common in central and southern Italy: here, bars that are starting to offer aperitifs have been inspired by the fashion in the large northern cities. In Rome, for example, in some bars it is possible to experience "Milanese-style happy hour". An expression which, in itself reveals the true home of this ritual.
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